Domaine Pierre de la Grange is considered one of the best of the Nantais, a region that marks the most northwestern point of all France’s vineyards. Pierre and his wife Monique are the seventh generation of to run Domaine Pierre de la Grange, though their wines are more likely to be found listed under Luneau-Papin or even Pierre Luneau, than under the estate’s true name.

They have approximately 40 hectares of vines, with 38 hectares planted to Melon de Bourgogne and the remaining 2 hectares committed to red varieties. The vineyards are situated in Le Landreau, Vallet and La Chapelle Heulin, about 20 kilometres from Nantes itself. The vines average forty-five years although some are well into their seventh decade.

There is a broad and varied range of cuvées produced at Luneau-Papin, which in many cases reflect vineyard or terroir of origin. The leading cuvées are the L d’Or and the Semper Excelsior Clos des Noëlles. The Clos des Noëlles (often simply refered to as Excelsior) is a little different, rather than the traditional nine months sur lie, this wine sees 36 months in tank, with regular bâtonnage before it sees the inside of a bottle.

Pale gold in color. Rather subdued and perhaps even a little flat on the nose, some orchard fruit and citrus with crushed rock and brine. Admittedly, I was a little underwhelmed by first impressions, but in the mouth this is really a beautiful wine. Delicate, precise and elegant but showing ripe fruit, chalky minerality and sharp, stony acidity. Beautiful pear and green apple with citrus and saline. Nice weight, creamy (but not extremly rich) with tremendous purity and freshness. I thought this was a stellar bottle of wine, and would even consider it a great value play in the $20 a bottle range, though the nose was a little flat. Some might also contend it lacks a little bit of richness and is a bit too elegant, but I thought it was outstanding. 12.5% alcohol. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections. Another gem I found at Chambers Street Wines in New York City. Strongly recommended.

I can’t wait to try the ’05 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d’Or the Given how much I liked the ’05 Excelsior.

Related post:
Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Granite de Clisson 2007
Domaine de la Pépière “Vieilles Vignes” Clos des Briords Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2007