Another wine from René Rostaing, one of the great names of Côte Rôtie. He started out in 1971, with a little more than an acre of vineyards, split between the Côte Blonde and La Landonne. Since that time his holdings have expanded considerably and today his estate stands at over 20 acres of Côte Rôtie.

Rostaing leans to the modernist camp of Côte Rôtie producers; however, he goes easy on new oak, using a maximum of 15% in the maturation process. All of his wines are bottled unfiltered.

Recently, René and his wife purchased a modest estate, Domaine Puech Chaud, in the Côteaux du Languedoc. Located in a relatively cool micro-climate, the zone’s limestone gravel seemed perfect for the Rostaings’ love of Syrah.

I believe this is 80 percent Syrah with equal parts Mourvedre and Grenache. Dark ruby in color. Aromatics of cherry and earth with some wet pavement, cut hay and meatiness. On the palate, sour cherry, plum, leather and some earthiness and minerality. I would classify this as very good and even better at under $20. Not sure I would be as pleased had I paid above $20. 14% alcohol. 1,000 cases produced.

Not the easiest bottle to find. I got this from Primo Vino and it is currenty on sale at $18 a bottle. Wine Exchange has the 2005 at $27 a bottle. Chez Panisse has the 2006 on its wine list at $48 a bottle. I would recommend this at under $20 a bottle — but I was more impressed with the 2005 Puech Chaud Blanc.