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Daniel Bouland Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2008

November 19, 2009 by tomdelorme

Another wine from Weygandt Wines, the new wine store in DC featuring importer Peter Weygandt’s portfolio. One of the great things about the store is that they taste wines every day. They usually taste the same half dozen or so wines for the week, but last Saturday they tweeted that they tasting some different wines than earlier in the week.  The Morgon from Bouland caught my eye and so I decided to stop by given that it was Saturday and Peter Weygandt might also be at the store (which he was).

I tasted the wine at the store and picked up a couple of bottles to bring home. The 2008 Daniel Bouland Morgon Vieilles Vignes is 100% Gamay made from 60 to 90 year-old vines grown on granitic soils that are rich in iron and manganese. Daniel Bouland is considered one of the traditionalists in Beaujolais, careful hand-harvesting, very low yields and wild yeast fermentations help create a complex and ageworthy Morgon (5 to 15 years is recommended by the estate).

Dark ruby color — with a shade of black olive, but transparent. Nose of strawberry and cherry with some earthy and floral notes. On the palate, loaded with cherry, strawberry and raspberry as well as some cranberry, earth, and crushed asphalt. This might be a serious Beaujolais, but it is also ranks very high in quaffability. Lightly fined and unfiltered. 13% alcohol. Recommended and a very good value at $20 a bottle, not to mention a solid choice for Thanksgiving.

More Thanksgiving picks:
Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato Sicilia IGT 2006
Jean & Agnes Foillard — Morgon Cuvée Corcelette Vieille Vigne 2007
Occhipinti SP68 Rosso Vittoria 2008
Rhys Alesia Sonoma Coast Chileno Vally Pinot Noir 2006 (or any Pinot from Rhys)
Passopisciaro Sicily IGT 2005
Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône 2007
Clos Saint-Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005 (or one of the great CdPs from 07)
Les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône 2007
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Terres de Galets 2007
Edmunds St. John Rocks & Gravel 2005
Cheverny Le Petit Chambord Domaine Francois Cazin 2007
André Perret Saint Jospeh 2007
Domaine Ricard Cuvee Les Trois Chênes 2008
Tablas Creek Vineyard Côtes de Tablas Blanc 2008
Mas des Bressades Roussanne-Viognier 2007
Mourges du Gres Terre d’Argence Blanc 2007

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Domaine Alary Cairanne La Font d’Estevenas 2007

November 14, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1698As I wrote a couple of weeks ago, DC has a new wine store. Weygandt Wines is the best wine store in DC and in the same league with the best in the country (Chambers Street, Kermit Lynch, K&L, Astor and the Wine Exchange). At Weygandt it’s not the range of the selection (albeit impressive), it’s about a hand-picked selection that is especially strong in terms of French wines. They taste wines each and every day from 4-8 pm — and staff are super friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. The experience is further elevated on many Saturdays by the presence of Peter Weygandt. He helped me pick out some wines a couple of weeks ago. He suggested the 2007 Alary Cairanne La Font d’Estevenas (a wine I bought in 05 and 06). He said the 07 was very special, so much so that it was the red wine he selected for his daughter’s wedding this past summer.

The Alary family have been growers for 11 generations. One of their sites is on the choicest parcel of Cairanne, known as the Font D’Estevenas. The Font D’Estevanas site in Cairanne gives its name to two of the domaine’s top wines ( a white and a red). The red is a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah planted some 40 years ago from cuttings brought from Hermitage, blended with Grenache and Counoise, some of the Grenache vines being over 100 years old.

Dark ruby in color. Aromatics of ripe raspberry, cherry and kirsch with violets and a little earthiness. On the palate — loaded with deep, ripe red and dark fruit with some rare meat, pepper and graphite. Opulent and textured with silky tannins and a solid finish. I thought this showed better on day 2 and I would definitely hold for 2-3 years at a minimum or decant in the near term. This would stand up against many a Chateauneuf du Pape. Another great wine from the Weygandt portfolio. Recommended.

Not surprisingly, my short list of favorites wines from the Rhône 2007 vintage is dominated by wines imported by Kermit Lynch, Louis/Dressner and Peter Weygandt.

Favorite Côtes du Rhônes 2007
Domaine Gramenon Sierra du Sud
Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône
Les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône (Cuvée des Galets & Cuvée 3 Cepages)
 Domaine Alary Cairanne La Font d’Estevenas
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône-Villages-Cairanne
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Terres de Galets
Domaine Gramenon Les Laurentides Côtes du Rhône
Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône

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Viñedos de Ithaca “Akyles” Priorat 2007

November 11, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1694I learned late yesterday that Silvia Puig was pouring her wines at a dinner at Tallula in Northern Virginia last night. It wasn’t enough notice for me to make it and regretted not being able to attend.  Tonight, I came home and attempted to remedy the situation by opening a bottle of their Akyles.

The Akyles is a blend of 40% Garnatxa Negra & Peluda (Peluda is a variant of the Garnatxa grape so-called because the underside of the leaves have a hairy or “peluda” appearance) 45% Carinyena  and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Vinification is done directly into 400 liter French oak casks with the skins, so that the never-ending stirring can be accomplished during fermentation with native yeast in order to get the rich tannins and color from the grapes.  Aged in the same barrels once topped off for 10-12 months.

Beautiful dark ruby in color. The nose is a packed with dark cherry and currant, violet and rose with a little vanilla, orange and cola. The color and the nose suggest another dense and extracted red wine from Priorat (not to mention weighing in at 15% alcohol), but this is actually quite graceful, finessed, supple and balanced. That all being said, there is a lot of fruit (dark and baked berry) with some fig, olive, green vegetable and vanilla. Nice minerality. Expansive with a big finish.

I was really impressed with the Odysseus Garnacha Blanca Priorat 2008, but this is a winner as well. Recommended — and a good value at $22 a bottle. Imported by Vinos Unico.

About Viñedos de Ithaca
The father and daughter team of Joseph and Silvia Puig named their winery Odysseus in honor of the Greeks who first brought vines to Spain. Odysseus makes Garnacha Tinta based reds, as virtually all of the producers in Priorat, but they have attracted the most attention for their Garnacha Blanca.

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Les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône 2007

November 5, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1689What makes Daniel Boulle so special, in my opinion, is his absolute perfection in growing. His yields are minute and the fruit is perfect. ~Peter Weygandt

As I wrote in a recent post, there is a fantastic new wine store in DC. Weygandt Wines is owned by Peter Weygandt and Todd Ross. Peter Weygandt has been an importer of wines for 20 years with Weygandt Metzler. I went back to the store for another visit yesterday and was surprised to see Peter Weygandt at the store. I was even more surprised by how friendly and personable he was. Peter chatted with me about the store and helped me pick out some wines — he was extremely approachable, modest, sincere and generous with his time and knowledge. It was a real delight to spend some time with him.

I’ve tasted a few of the wines I purchased from Weygandt Wines. My favorites were both from Les Aphillanthes. There are a number of cuvées produced at Les Aphillanthes. I selected three of the cuvées from the six of seven wines from Les Asphillanthes.

The “Cuvée des Galets” is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre, from yields of only 20-22 hl/ha (less than half of what he is allowed to produce). Bright ruby red. The Grenache really shines on the nose. Cherry, strawberry and violet wrapped in meaty, gamey and peppery notes. On the palate, black cherry, strawberry and cranberry with pepper, herbs and bacon fat. Structured with silky, chalk-edged tannins — and a little chewy. Solid finish. 14.5% alcohol.

Perhaps even better than the Galets is the “Cuvée 3 Cepages” of equal parts Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Darker ruby in color with cherry and violet with some cassis, pepper and garrigue.  On the palate, cherry and dried cranberry with licorice, rare meat, earthy and floral notes. The 3 Cepages has a bit more impact with a little more acidity and tannins than the Galets — as well as a more pronounced and persistent finish. 14.5% alcohol.

Both wines would be on my list of favorite Côtes du Rhônes from 2007. Strongly recommended.

About Les Aphillanthes
Prior to 1999, Daniel Boulle and his wife Helene sold all of their fruit the local co-operative. Friends and colleagues saw that his fruit was of superb quality, and convinced Daniel and Helen it deserved to be bottled as it stood, rather than absorbed into the wines of the local co-op. Domaine Les Aphillanthes was born and today is a rising star of the southern Rhône.

Boulle sees himself as a vigneron rather than a winemaker and he applies minimal intervention in the winery. Recently Boulle has introduced biodynamic practices to the vineyard. Boulle was encouraged in this new practice not by contact with other followers of biodynamic principles, but by a success in treating his own son’s eczema using natural medical products which Boulle likens to a biodynamic approach. In the winery, Boulle transports the wine using gravity feed, and ferments in concrete vats. The wines are bottled without filtration.

Favorites from Côtes du Rhône 2007
Domaine Gramenon Sierra du Sud
Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône
Domaine Gramenon Les Laurentides Côtes du Rhône
Les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône-Villages-Cairanne
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Terres de Galets
Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône

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Viñedos de Ithaca Odysseus Garnacha Blanca Priorat 2008

October 31, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1673The father and daughter team of Joseph and Silvia Puig named their winery Odysseus in honor of the Greeks who first brought vines to Spain. Odysseus makes Garnacha Tinta based reds, as virtually all of the producers in Priorat, but they have attracted the most attention for their Garnacha Blanca.

This is a White Priorat wine made from native Garnacha Blanca grapes from 80 year old vines. The wine is carefully fermented in the “old-style” without temperature control. A cold maceration for between 10 and 18 hours in new French oak barrels (which they later re-use for the red wines) is followed by native yeast fermentation in temperature controlled (frozen liter bottles of water are tossed in with the must) in stainless steel vats.

Light golden color. Pear, stone fruit and honeydew aromatics solid minerality with a touch of smoke. On the palate, pear, peach and nectarine with a spicy herbaceous quality and a little citrus and salt water. Rich, textured, with good acidity and loaded with minerality. Distinguished and strongly recommended — one of my favorite white wine discoveries of the year. 14 percent alcohol. Less than 500 cases produced.

This wine is available for $24-33 a bottle depending on the source. Imported by Vinos Unico.

Posted in Recommended, Spain | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment »

Domaine Leon Barral Faugères 2006

October 28, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1669Domaine Leon Barral consists of 25 hectares in the Haut Languedoc, north of Bezier. Didier Barral (Leon was his grandfatehr) is considered one of the best wine makers (and by many the best) in this traditionally undervalued appellation, drawing acclaim for his very naturally made wines, with low levels of sulfur. Barral relies on biodynamic farming techniques in the vineyard and employs an ancient-style basket press.

The 2006 Barral Faugères is predominantly Grenache and Carignan with some Syrah and Mourvedre (never de-stemmed and raised in tank). Complex and vibrant nose of violets, cherry, black olive, leather, a little old world must and barnyard. On the palate, velvety and textured flavors of cherry and currant with some pepper and tobacco as well as a generous dose of earthiness, wild game and a hint of funky vegetables. 13% alcohol. Imported by Kermit Lynch.

I have seen this priced in the $17-25 a bottle range. It is a steal under $20. Recommended.

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New Weygandt Wines Store in DC

October 27, 2009 by tomdelorme

weygandt-logoThe newest wine store in DC is also the best and one of the best in the United States. New York has Chambers Street Wines and Astor Wines, LA has the Wine Exchange, Berkeley has Kermit Lynch — and now Weygandt Wines put DC on the map with a truly great wine store.

There isn’t another store in the United States that has this selection of wines — the whole Weygandt portfolio under one roof. Some might say it is limited to the Weygandt portfolio — but that is the beauty of it. You won’t find everything here, but it isn’t about finding everything — it’s about finding a selection of items you won’t find at any other wine store. As just one example, there isn’t another wine store in the U.S that has the whole Gérard Gauby porfolio — only in DC. Obviously you won’t find any domestic wines in the store, but the selection is amazing considering it is from the portfolio of a single importer — and the selection of French wines is outstanding. It won’t be the only wine destination on my map, but it will be one of the most trusted and reliable.

Peter Weygandt is one of the most trusted importers in the world — don’t trust me read the article in Slate — I have 3 go to importers — Louis/Dressner, Kermit Lynch and Weygandt. A wine with his name on it brings a certain sense of quality and security. They have a good selection at a variety of price points — perhaps very limited under $10 — but a very good selection at $15 — and it’s worth a little extra to know you are getting a treasure instead of a bottle of plonk. They taste wines each and every day from 4-8 pm — and staff are super friendly, helpful and knowledgeable. Peter Weygandt is often expected to be in the store on Saturdays. He helped me pick out some wines — he was extremely approachable, modest, sincere and generous with his time and knowledge.

This really is a gem of a store — and something very unique and wonderful to DC. A must visit.

Specialties
Outstanding value wines from France, Italy, Austria, Germany, Spain, Australia and Slovenia with a large selections scoring 90+ points from The Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator and Burghound.

Most of their wines are biodynamic. Biodynamics is based on the 1920s teachings of Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian scientist and philosopher who applied astronomy and homeopathic treatments to farming. The practice is holistic, blending philosophy and spirituality with agriculture. Biodynamic winemakers approach the vineyard as a self-sustaining ecosystem and view the soil as a living organism. So, biodynamic wine is not only 100% organic, in addition, the grower has gone beyond to try to bring the farming process more closely in tune with nature.

History
Since 1987, Peter Weygandt has been an importer of French wines and has gained a national and international reputation for the quality of his selections and his portfolio of top “boutique” French wines. His wines are a near constant feature of top wine journals including Robert M. Parker, Jr.’s The Wine Advocate, Wine Spectator and Burghound. In recent years he has expanded his portfolio to include Italian, German, Austrian, Australian, and Spanish wines, more than 100 producers in all.

Weygandt Wines is the next natural step for the Weygandt-Metzler portfolio; to create a retail store dedicated to showcasing all of the diverse selections, value, and quality of Peter Weygandt Selections, from both the most well-known viticultural regions, and from lesser-known regions and up-and-coming producers.

3519 Connecticut Avenue, NW, Suite 10
Washington, DC 20008
(202) 362-9463

Related posts:
Les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône
Domaine Alary Cairanne La Font d’Estevenas
Mourges du Gres Terre d’Argence Blanc 2007

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Domaine Gramenon Côtes du Rhône Blanc Vie on y Est 2008

October 18, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1664As I have written before, Domaine Gramenon is one of the most respected producers in the Rhône. In Robert Parker’s book on the wines of the Rhône valley, he classified Gramenon in the same category as Beaucastel and Fonsalette.

In 1998, owner Phillipe Laurent nearly doubled the area of his vineyards by purchasing some 50 acres in Vinsobres. A year later, he died in a tragic accident and his wife decided to sell some 35 acres the Perrin brothers at Beaucastel. Today, Michelle Aubery-Laurent and her son Maxim-François continue to make wines in a pretty natural way, with sulphur dioxide used just at assemblage. Their vineyards are farmed organically, and they never filter or fine their wines.

Their wines are not very well known in the United States as they are available on a limited basis. I found Gramenon’s wines through Kermit Lynch’s newsletter. He described them as a pure expression of biodynamically farmed, old vine fruit with knock-out fruit flavors tempered by a core of strong minerality.

The Côtes du Rhône Blanc Vie on y Est 2008 is 100% Viognier from 25 year old vines. Aromatics of peach, tangerine and honeysuckle with mineral notes and a touch of smoke. On the palate, apricot, apple, pear and limestone. Complex, but there is also a persistent underlying, distinct note that is difficult to describe but seems to be characteristic of all of Gramenon’s wines. Good minerality and richness, but also elegant. Nicely textured with soft acidity. 13.5% alcohol. Imported by Kermit Lynch.

I thought this was yet another great wine from Domaine Gramenon. All of their wines are strongly recommended, but the Sierra du Sud and La Sagesse from the 07 vintage are stand outs in my opinion.

Other wines from Domaine Gramenon:
Domaine Gramenon Sierra du Sud 2007
Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône 2007
Domaine Gramenon Les Laurentides Côtes du Rhône 2007

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Mourges du Gres Terre d’Argence Blanc 2007

October 10, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1658Mourges du Gres is a 98 acre estate is owned and meticulously run by Anne and François Collard. François decided to come back to the family estate in 1990 and bottled his first red wine in 1993. The terroir is made up of ‘de galets’ called gres. The vineyards flat pebbles protect the soil from evaporation and add a touch of minerality and freshness to the taste of the wines. Robert Parker has called Mourges du Gres “one of the most impressive estates in the Costières de Nîmes; a treasure-trove of value-priced wines…”

The 2007 Terre d’Argence Blanc 2007 is a blend of Viognier, Roussane and Grenache Blanc. Tropical aromatics with peach and honeysuckle. On the palate, pear and apricot, some pineapple and lemon curd. Lots of chalky minerality with crisp acidity — and a solid persistent finish. A very nice wine for  $13 dollars a bottle — this would near the top of my white wine values, right after the Mas des Bressades Roussanne-Viognier 2007. 14% alcohol.  A Peter Weygandt Selection.

The Galets Rouges and Terre d’Argence Rouge got a lot more attention given the 92 point ratings from Parker, but I thought the Terre d’Argence Blanc was the sleeper in their portfolio.  Recommended.

Related posts — recent French white wines:
Domaine Ricard Cuvee Les Trois Chênes 2008
André Perret Saint Jospeh 2007
Paul Jaboulet Chevalier Sterimberg Hermitage Blanc 2004
Pierre Gonon St. Joseph Blanc Les Oliviers 2007
Mas des Bressades Roussanne-Viognier 2007
Clos Roche Blanche Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (and 2007)
Pierre Gaillard Condrieu 2006
René Rostaing Puech Chaud Blanc Coteaux du Languedoc 2005
Cheverny Le Petit Chambord Domaine Francois Cazin 2007
Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2007
Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2007
Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne “Haut Coustias” Blanc 2007

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Château Pesquié Côtes du Ventoux Terrasses 2007

October 3, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1657Château Pesquié is one of the Côtes du Ventoux’s top  and most storied estates. There is evidence of vine cultivation at Château Pesquié that dates to two thousand years. In the early 1970’s, Odette & René Bastide, bought Château Pesquié from an heir of the famous Provençal writer, Alphonse Daudet. They were wine pioneers of sorts, as the Appellation Côtes du Ventoux was not created until 1973. Today, the vines average 35 to 40 years of age — and the oldest are over 100 years of age.

In the mid-1980’s, Edith & Paul Chaudière (René & Odette’s daughter and son-in-law), gave up their medical careers to take over the family estate. To prepare for their change in profession, they studied for and passed the Consultant Sommelier exams at the “Université du Vin” in Suze-La-Rousse and prepared a thesis on terroir selection. They went on several research trips to other wine regions (Bordeaux, Burgundy, Napa Valley, Oregon…) and completed their academic preparation with vocational training at the wine institute in Orange, where Paul’s father, Charles Chaudière, was an oenology professor.

Once completed with their studies, they set up the Château Pesquié cellars in 1989 and carried out their first vinifications in 1990 (for the previous twenty years, the grapes grown on the estate were taken to two cooperative wineries). At the time, the Appellation had fewer than 10 independent cellars. In 2003, Paul & Edith’s two sons, Alexandre & Frédéric, and their cousin Renaud, took over the Domaine. Today, Château Pesquié is considered one of the leading estates in the Appellation of Côtes du Ventoux and the southern Rhône Valley.

The 2007 Terrasses Rouge is a custom cuvée created for importer Eric Solomon, made from 70 % Grenache and 30 % Syrah (with some traces of Carignan and Cinsault), one-third is aged in small barrels and the rest in foudre and tank. Ruby red in color with aromatics of raspberry, pepper, violet and garrigue (with a hint of alcohol and green leaves/stems). On the palate, bright raspberry with black cherry with a bit of licorice, leather and earth. Medium weight with solid balance and depth — perhaps a bit simple, but good purity of fruit. 14% alcohol. This is another great example of the quality of the 2007 vintage in the southern Rhône and a steal at $11 a bottle.  Recommended.

Other Côtes du Rhônes from the 07 vintage:
Domaine Gramenon Sierra du Sud 2007
Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône 2007
Domaine Gramenon Les Laurentides Côtes du Rhône 2007
Côtes du Rhône Maxime-François Laurent Il Fait Soif 2007
Escaravailles Côtes du Rhônes (2007 & 2008)
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Terres de Galets 2007
Domaine Depeyre Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2007
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Terres de Galets 2007
Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2007
Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2007
Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne “Haut Coustias” Blanc 2007

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Escaravailles Côtes du Rhônes 2007 & 2008

October 1, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1274Updated on October 1, 2009 with notes on the Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône Le Ponce Blanc 2008.

Domaine des Escaravailles belongs to the Ferran family for three generations. It was brought by Gilles Ferran’s Grandfather, Jean-Louis Ferran in 1953. He called his new estate “Escaravailles,” the Occitan word for beetles and nickname for the black-robed monks of the area’s hill-perched Catholic monasteries in centuries past.

The great advantage of the Escaravailles’ terroir is being located at a high altitude (820 feet above sea level) with steep slopes. These conditions are fundamental for the quality of the wine as the slope facilitates drainage and exposure, the clay subsoil preserves some water and the altitude provides an important range in temperatures between the day and the night.

The winery spreads out over 99 acres on Rasteau and 62 acres on Cairanne, Villedieu and Saint Roman. The use of chemicals is minimal and the soils are worked mechanically all year round. Harvest is done manually with two sortings (one the vine and the other upon delivery to the cellar). The grapes are totally destemmed, vinifiyed and aged in a cellar semi underground situated on the heights of Rasteau. Annual production is currently 300,000 bottles / 25,000 cases.

Up until the late 1990s, Escaravailles was considered good, but not great. In 1999, Gilles Ferran took control of the estate. Gilles is an educated enologist from Montpellier and had assisted his father for 10 years. Gilles Ferran is the 3th generation at the domain. At the wine university, he was classmates with Philippe Cambie (Clos St. Jean, Clos du Caillou, Pegau, countless others).

When he took control, Ferran enlisted the services of the Cambie to help craft the wines and the results have been immediate and superb. Cambie directed them to drop fruit,  limit yields, get the Grenache plants into balance and wait to harvest until ripeness is optimal regardless of the risk. Ferran took Cambie for his word and followed each suggestion, but on occasion challenged Cambie. Eventually, the relationship grew into one of Cambie’s closest, with each friend pushing the other. The results of this partnership are undeniable. Robert Parker raved about the ’06s from Escaravailles, citing them in his “World’s Greatest Wine Values.” The 2007s might be even better.

Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Les Sablieres 2007
One example of the results, a terrific Côtes du Rhône called “Les Sablieres.” This is a blend of 70% Grenache (40 years old), 30% Syrah (30 years old). The Grenache and Syrah are vinified in separate cement tanks. The Grenache really shines with beautiful and bright cherry, raspberry, strawberry with some earthniness and pepper on the palate. Ripe, but not overdone and medium bodied. Textured, focused and intense, but also extremely well balanced.

It is a great value and a really beautiful bottle of wine. You could told me this cost twice as much and I would not have been surprised or disappointed. Certainly one my favorites of the 07 Côtes du Rhônes I have tasted this year.

This was only $12 a bottle at Wine Exchange. 14% alcohol. I thought this was tremendous at the price point and strongly recommended.

Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône Les Antimagnes 2007
The Les Antimagnes is also an amazing value, priced at about $14-$15 a bottle. It is a blend of 70% Grenache (60 years old), 30% Syrah (30 years old). The Grenache and Syrah are vinified in separate cement tanks.

Similar to the Les Sablieres, it showcases the Grenache component. On the nose, ripe raspberry, kirsch with a touch of bubble gum and licorice. On the palate, loaded with dark red fruit — black cherry, raspberry and blackberry with some meaty notes, earthiness and pepper. This is a bigger wine and weighs in at 15% alcohol.  I thought the Les Sablieres showed a bit more restraint, was more food friendly and had better balance. That being said, this is another very good value and also recommended.

Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône Le Ponce Blanc 2008
This wine is a blend of 40% Rousanne, 40% Marsanne, 10% Grenache and 10% Clairette. I was excited about the blend also considering my experience with their other wines from Escaravailles. This is another solid effort. Aromatics of stone fruit, green apple, stone fruit and some floral components. On the palate, pear and apple with some lingering tangerine and pineapple. Crisp and rich, but perhaps a bit hollow in the mid-palate.

I didn’t feel the need to run out and buy more of this (like I was with the the Cuvée Les Sablieres) but I won’t hesitate to open another bottle. An enjoyable and food-friendly bottle of wine, not to mention a great value at $13-14.

The wines are imported by Jeff Welburn Selections.

Favorite Côtes du Rhônes 2007
Domaine Gramenon Sierra du Sud
Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône
Domaine Gramenon Les Laurentides Côtes du Rhône
Les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône
Domaine Alary Cairanne La Font d’Estevenas
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône-Villages-Cairanne
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Terres de Galets
Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône

Other Côtes du Rhônes from the 07 vintage:
Côtes du Rhône Maxime-François Laurent Il Fait Soif 2007
Domaine Depeyre Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2007
Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2007
Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2007

Posted in France, Recommended, Value Pick | Tagged , , , , , , | 3 Comments »

Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas Rouge 2007

September 17, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1374Tablas Creek Vineyard was founded by the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel and Robert Haas, the longtime importer and founder of Vineyard Brands. Tablas Creek is dedicated to the production of wines made from Rhône grape varietals. All of their wines are made with grapes from their 120-acre certified organic estate vineyard.

Tablas Creek called the 2007 vintage the best to date — and so I was excited about the Côtes de Tablas Rouge given that I am generally a big fan of their wines. The 2007 Côtes de Tablas is 50% Grenache with equal parts Syrah and Counoise.  All of the varietals were fermented in stainless steel with the use of native yeasts: the Syrah in open-top fermenters, punched down manually, and the other varietals in closed fermenters with pump-over aeration. After pressing, the wines were racked, blended, aged for a year in 1200-gallon French oak foudres, and then bottled in February 2009. The wines underwent a light filtration before bottling.

On the nose, raspberry and cherry with some strawberry rhubarb and peppered bacon. On the palate, cherry with raspberry and some red licorice, a little leather with herbaceousness, pepper and mineral undertones — good backbone with ripe tannins and soft edges. The Grenache really shines and while this is juicy, it is not overdone, is very well balanced and actually a bit restrained. This is the best Côtes de Tablas from last three vintages and a great bargain at under $18 a bottle. 14.8% alcohol. Strongly recommended.

Other wines from Tablas Creek:
Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas Rouge 2006
Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc 2006
Côtes de Tablas Creek Vermentino 2008
Tablas Creek Vineyard Côtes de Tablas Blanc 2006

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Yves Cuilleron Viognier 2007

September 7, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1366The Cuilleron family domaine, located in the town of Chavanay, was founded several generations ago. Yves Cuilleron’s grandfather was the first to bottle wine for commercial purposes in 1947. The estate is now in the hands of Yves Cuilleron. He took over in 1986, though at the time he had no viticultural experience, his professional experience was as a mechanic. Today, he is considered a superstar of the Northern Rhône with a reputation for very fine white wines from Condrieu, though he also produces outstanding Côte-Rôtie and St Joseph.

The Yves Cuilleron Viognier 2007 is golden yellow in color and a bit cloudy. Nose of apricot and peach with lemon curd, sea foam and a little must. On the palate, stone and tropical fruit with hints of bay leaf, white pepper and jalepeno. Good richness with steely minerality. Perhaps a little heavy handed and a bit front loaded. 13.5% alcohol. 21,000 bottles produced. Imported by Rosenthal Wine Merchants.

A very good bottle of wine, but have had better values and better whites from the Rhône for money, at this price point I would probably opt for one of the following:

André Perret Saint Jospeh 2007
Pierre Gonon St. Joseph Blanc Les Oliviers 2007

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Edmunds St. John Bassetti Syrah 2005

August 29, 2009 by tomdelorme

IMG_1359I poured this the same night as the Domaine Gramenon Sierra du Sud 2007. I thought both of the wines were brilliant — and while I might give a slight nod to the Gramenon, the Edmunds St. John impressed me as a more “serious” wine with greater longevity.

I would also go so far to say it was more Rhône-like in style. I would open the Gramenon if I had the opportunity to open a bottle tomorrow. Given the same choice five years from now, I would opt for Edmunds St. John Bassetti Syrah 2005.

Deep, dark purple in color. Vibrant aromatics of cherry, violet, garrigue and smoke. On the palate, black cherry and raspberry wrapped in smoke, black olive, earth, wild game and herbs. Optimal ripeness and impeccable balance — not overdone in any respect. Solid acidity and firm yet silky tannins with a persistent finish. 14.2 percent alcohol. 103 cases produced. Strongly recommended.

I have not had as good of luck since the great night of Syrahs last week. A bottle of Domaine de Boède Coteaux du Languedoc Les Grès 2007 was overripe and overdone — the bottle unfinished. Last night I opened a Rosenblum 2005 Zinfandel Snow Lake Vineyard Lake County that was hot, medicinal and ripe. I had a hard time finishing a glass and didn’t go back for more.

More about Steve Edmunds and Edmunds St. John
Steve Edmunds started Edmunds St. John in 1985 with his wife, Cornelia St. John, in an effort to explore the possibility of producing world-class, European-style wines in California, using Rhône varietal grapes: Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Viognier, etc. He quickly earned a lot of praise and by 1988, Robert Parker was calling Edmunds St. John perhaps the “finest practitioner” of Californians working with Rhone grapes. At that time, I was working at Bonny Doon Vineyard and was bitten by the Rhone bug and have probably bought some of Steve’s wines with each vintage since that time.

Other wines from Edmunds St. John
Edmunds St. John Rocks & Gravel 2005

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