Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Granite de Clisson 2007

February 6, 2010 by tomdelorme

It’s still early February, but I am confident that my resolution to drink more Muscadet was one of my best New Year’s resolutions to date — and also one of the easiest to fulfill. As I wrote in a previous post, no survey of Muscadet would be complete without experiencing the wines from Domaine de la Pépière, home to Marc Ollivier.

In 2005, Ollivier produced his first “Granite de Clisson” — a periodic bottling of 60-90 year old vines. It is aged on the lees for 24 months and so it cannot be labeled “Sur Lie” as it violates the current regulations which permit only nine months of aging. Ollivier takes his time in the vineyard and the cellar. Ripening is slower, and the longer hang-time before harvest allows for optimal maturity. He hand harvests (a rarity in the region), uses natural yeasts, waits for the wine to finish and bottles with a very light filtration.

The 07 Granite de Clisson is young (it is expected to benefit from 10-15 years of aging), but already showing very well. Golden yellow color with aromas of citrus and wet stones with some floral, saline and leesy notes. On the palate, great richness, depth and intensity — pure and ripe citrus and pear with honey, tarragon and a little spice. Round with bright acidity and minerality.

I thought this was more muscular than the Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Excelsior 2005, which isn’t to say I wasn’t extremely fond of this as well, it’s just stylistically different. I’m not sure I could say which one I liked better and don’t think I prefer one to the other. Both wines are magnificent. Choosing between the two would just depend on my mood. As good as this is showing right now, it will be extremely interesting to watch this develop over the coming years. I hope I can find the patience and restraint to keep my hands off of it. This is worth seeking out and a great value at about $20 a bottle. 12% alcohol. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Granite de Clisson 2007, Louis/Dressner Selections, Marc Ollivier, Melon de Bourgogne, Muscadet | Leave a Comment »

Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Excelsior 2005

February 5, 2010 by tomdelorme

Domaine Pierre de la Grange is considered one of the best of the Nantais, a region that marks the most northwestern point of all France’s vineyards. Pierre and his wife Monique are the seventh generation of to run Domaine Pierre de la Grange, though their wines are more likely to be found listed under Luneau-Papin or even Pierre Luneau, than under the estate’s true name.

They have approximately 40 hectares of vines, with 38 hectares planted to Melon de Bourgogne and the remaining 2 hectares committed to red varieties. The vineyards are situated in Le Landreau, Vallet and La Chapelle Heulin, about 20 kilometres from Nantes itself. The vines average forty-five years although some are well into their seventh decade.

There is a broad and varied range of cuvées produced at Luneau-Papin, which in many cases reflect vineyard or terroir of origin. The leading cuvées are the L d’Or and the Semper Excelsior Clos des Noëlles. The Clos des Noëlles (often simply refered to as Excelsior) is a little different, rather than the traditional nine months sur lie, this wine sees 36 months in tank, with regular bâtonnage before it sees the inside of a bottle.

Pale gold in color. Rather subdued and perhaps even a little flat on the nose, some orchard fruit and citrus with crushed rock and brine. Admittedly, I was a little underwhelmed by first impressions, but in the mouth this is really a beautiful wine. Delicate, precise and elegant but showing ripe fruit, chalky minerality and sharp, stony acidity. Beautiful pear and green apple with citrus and saline. Nice weight, creamy (but not extremly rich) with tremendous purity and freshness. I thought this was a stellar bottle of wine, and would even consider it a great value play in the $20 a bottle range, though the nose was a little flat. Some might also contend it lacks a little bit of richness and is a bit too elegant, but I thought it was outstanding. 12.5% alcohol. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections. Another gem I found at Chambers Street Wines in New York City. Strongly recommended.

I can’t wait to try the ‘05 Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Le L d’Or the Given how much I liked the ‘05 Excelsior.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Domaine Pierre de la Grange, Louis/Dressner Selections, Pierre Luneau-Papin Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie Excelsior 2005 | Leave a Comment »

Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette 2007

February 1, 2010 by tomdelorme

The Clos de la Roilette, in the village of Fleurie, covers nine hectares of one of the best slopes in the Beaujolais Crus. The domaine has an eastern exposure, borders the Moulin-à-Vent appellation, and produces wines that are beautiful when young with the potential to age 5-10 years, depending on the vintage.

The owner, Alain Coudert is regarded as one of the best known top producers in the region. Alain’s father, Fernand Coudert purchased this great old property in the mid-1960s from the previous owners, the Crozet family. In the 1920s, when the delimitations of Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent were officially prescribed, Monsieur Crozet was outraged when his estate was consigned to Fleurie, as the wine had previously been sold as Moulin-à-Vent. It was at this time that he began to sell the wine as Clos de la Roilette, named after his very successful thoroughbred racehorse, with no mention anywhere on the label of Fleurie. Understanding that this might not be enough of a statement, he further vowed to never again sell a bottle of his wine in France — and for years all of his production went to England, Switzerland and Germany. Today, the current label does mention the name of the appellation, but only as a subscript and the French embargo was lifted long ago.

Even today many critics say it is hard to find any argument with Monsieur Crozet, as the wines certainly bear more similarity to the wines of next door Moulin-à-Vent than they do with many of the more forward wines of Fleurie.

The 2007 is a dark ruby color. Aromatics of wild strawberry, raspberry with violet and earth. On the palate, sour cherry and cranberry with some spice. Good grip and acidity with a lingering finish. Many consider 2007 a lesser vintage and thought the fruit lacked some precision and was perhaps a bit muddy, but I still enjoyed this a bunch and it is also a good food wine — a classic pairing with roasted chicken. 13% alcohol. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.

Posted in France | Tagged Coudert Fleurie Clos de la Roilette 2007, Louis/Dressner Selections | Leave a Comment »

Domaine de la Pépière “Vieilles Vignes” Clos des Briords Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2007

January 31, 2010 by tomdelorme

As I mentioned in a previous post, I made a few wine resolutions for 2010. One of them was to drink more Muscadet.

Muscadet has always been the perfect pairing with oysters, so I usually will order it in a restaurant since I don’t shuck many oysters at home. However, Muscadet is not only for pairing for oysters. It is a very versatile food wine. The low alcohol doesn’t overwhelm and the wine’s acidity makes it a great pairing for many rich dishes — and certainly a great pairing for most seafood. Muscadet often is a very good value play as well.

Beyond the virtues of the grape, there are some very talented winemakers from the appellation as well. No survey of Muscadet would be complete without experiencing the wines from Domaine de la Pépière, home to Marc Ollivier. This particular bottle is a very-old-vine cuvée of Muscadet from a single-plot vineyard in schist, the Clos des Briords. These are among the oldest vines in his estate (planted in 1930) and all the vineyards are from original stock. Ollivier is the only grower in the Muscadet who does not have a single clonal selection in his vineyards.

Ollivier takes his time in the vineyard and the cellar. Ripening is slower, and the longer hang-time before harvest allows for optimal maturity. He hand harvests (also a rarity in the region), uses natural yeasts, waits for the wine to finish and bottles with a very light filtration. Because of the soil and greater concentration achieved with old vines, the Clos des Briords is a more powerful wine that most Muscadets. It is very mineral and quite austere in its youth, rather than fruity and light. Over a few months, or even years, if one can wait for it, it develops much complexity in aromatics and structure.

Aromatics of apple, citrus and saline. Great precision on the palate with sharp acidity. Loaded with citrus and crushed rock with some orchard fruit. Briney, stoney and chalky. A tremendous value at $16-$17 a bottle. 12% alcohol. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections. Recommended.

Also interesting to note, that Joe Dressner tweeted on January 30 – Finished Tasting in Muscadet. Marc Olliver thinks 2009 is best he has made — I will certainly be on the look out for the 2009s.

Posted in France, Recommended, Value Pick | Tagged Domaine de la Pépière "Vieilles Vignes" Clos des Briords Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2007, France, French Wine, Loire Valley, Louis/Dressner Selections, Marc Ollivier, Muscadet | Leave a Comment »

Domaine Fernand Girard Sancerre La Garenne 2008

January 30, 2010 by tomdelorme

One of my white wine resolutions for 2010 was to drink more Muscadet in 2010. I have always been a fan, but for some reason I tend to only drink it with a select number of foods — so I usually have it when I go out to eat. But the problem with Muscadet is that while it is widely available, a lot of it fails to excite me. I was in a wine shop the other day and they only had one muscadet, so I opted instead for a Sancerre from Domaine Fernand. Can you go wrong with a French white wine from the Loire imported by Louis/Dressner? Probably not…

The Domaine Girard is run by parents, Fernand and Monique, and son, Alain. They come from several generations of winemakers in the tiny village of Chaudoux, located a few miles northwest of the town of Sancerre and directly north of the famous town of Chavignol. They tend 12 hectares of vines in total, sell some cuvées to négociants and bottle only a portion of their production under their own name. Their La Garenne cuvée comes from a 2.5-hectare vineyard of that name, a plot on a steep east-facing slope with a very rocky limestone soil.

On the nose, citrus and pear with some briny notes. On the palate, grapefruit, lime, kiwi, cut grass, wet stones and herbs. Good acidity, though a bit more tropical than I would have expected. A very good bottle of wine, though given the choice, I would opt for the Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Cuvée Les Coûtes 2008.

Posted in France | Tagged Domaine Fernand Girard Sancerre La Garenne 2008, Louis/Dressner Selections | Leave a Comment »

Catherine and Pierre Breton Chinon Beaumont 2004

January 23, 2010 by tomdelorme

Last night I wanted some comfort — but I didn’t want to make the effort to try and put comfort on a plate. It was a long week and I didn’t have the energy. So I went downstairs and tried to find the best bet in a bottle. I opted for the Beaumont from Catherine and Pierre Breton. I have never had a wine from them that I didn’t enjoy and the 04 Beaumont delivered it in spades. Deep purple in color. Instant satisfaction from aromatics of dark fruit, violet, earth, black olive with smoke, herbs and some funk. Ripe, velvety and textured on the palate. A interesting mash of black and green — black cherry, blackcurrant and black olive with green olive, green vegetable, tobacco leaf and herbs.

A lot of wine and comfort at $13 a bottle. Strongly recommended. Imported by Kermit Lynch.

The 2005 Breton Beaumont was an LA Times pick of the week.

Other wines from Catherine & Pierre Breton:
Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières 2005
Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Nuits d’Ivresse, 2004
Charles Joguet

Posted in France, Recommended, Value Pick | Tagged Catherine & Pierre Breton, Chinon, French Wine, Kermit Lynch | Leave a Comment »

Shaya Verdejo Old Vines Rueda 2008

January 23, 2010 by tomdelorme

Shaya is a joint project among Jorge Ordonez, Enrique Busto and the Gil family of Jumilla. Their Verdejo is produced from very old low yielding vines whose average age is between 75 and 112 years old.

Spain has an appellation system for wine like France and Italy with the main classification of quality wine is Denominación de Origen (DO). Rueda gained DO status in 1980, the first DO to be approved in the Castilla y León region. While Sauvignon Blanc and Viura can also be used, only wines produced with at least 50 percent Verdejo are permitted to be labeled Rueda. For the Rueda Superior designation, at least 85 percent must be Verdejo. Sauvignon Blanc became an authorized variety for the Rueda DO in 1985. In fact, the importance of this grape is underscored by the fact that it has its own appellation, Rueda Sauvignon, which has to be 100 percent Sauvignon Blanc.

Shaya’s Verdejo is light yellowish gold in color. Stonefruit with tropical fruit and citrus on the nose. On the palate, orchard fruit, melon, tropical and citrus notes with a litte white pepper and spice. Vibrant acidity with a clean finish. Very approachable and quaffable. I thought this was a very good bottle of wine and a excellent value at $12 a bottle.

Posted in Recommended, Spain, Value Pick | Tagged Shaya Verdejo Old Vines Rueda 2008, Verdejo | Leave a Comment »

Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Cuvée Les Coûtes 2008

January 18, 2010 by tomdelorme

Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy took over the running of this domaine when their father retired in 1993. In 2007, however, tragedy struck, with the death of Nicolas when he and his brother were felling a tree. Fortunately, the fine traditions of the domaine live on as Nicolas’ widow and son Pascal continue Nicolas’ commitment to excellence.

The domaine’s reputation comes from the quality of their white as well as red cuvées (and they also produce an excellent rosé). In the vineyard, yields are restricted and fruit is hand harvested. Each plot is fermented separately, and the cellar is well equipped with the option of stainless steel or wood for the fermentation and, naturally, temperature control to preserve the freshness that characterizes the white wines of the region.

This is one of four white cuvées produced by Reverdy. The Les Coûtes is from a single hillside plot of 50 year old vines, harvested at 45 hl/ha. All their wines rest on their lees over the winter, before bottling the following spring. Like other recent Reverdy bottlings produced for the United States, this was neither cold-stabilized nor filtered.

Grapefruit, lemon/lime with powedered rock and white flowers on the nose. The citrus is also prominent on the palate with some orchard fruit, gooseberry and briny seawater. Solid acidity and loaded with chalky minerality. Oily and a little viscous, but also elegant and nuanced. 13% alcohol. Imported by Weygandt Metzler. Recommended — and while it does come in at about $20 a bottle, it is still a good value and a lot of wine for the money.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Cuvée Les Coûtes 2008, Sancerre, Weygandt-Metzler | Leave a Comment »

Bandol Rosé 2008

January 13, 2010 by tomdelorme

The Bandol wine region, located near the coast east of Marseille and Cassis, is one of Provence’s most internationally recognized wine regions. Bandol’s vineyards are some of the oldest in France. The Romans planted the first vines some 2,500 years ago. Mourvèdre is the king of Bandol — actually Bandol is the only French wine region that is dominated by the Mourvèdre grape.

For both the red and rosé wines, Mourvèdre must account for at least 50% of the blend, though most producers will use more, with Grenache & Cinsaut usually filling out the rest of the wine’s composition. Syrah and Carignan are restricted in Bandol to composing no more than 15% of the blend or 10% individually. Nearly 70% of the region’s production is red wine with rosé wine being around 27% and a small amount of white production; however, Bandol is probably best known for their rosé. These are two of my favorites from Bandol or anywhere else for that matter.

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2008
Domaine Tempier owns 30 hectares. It produces AOC Bandol exclusively – an average of 68% red, 29% rosé and 3% white wines, approximately 120,000 bottles per year.

On October 27, 1943, Lucien Peyraud bottled his first wine, a rosé. Today, the harvest is 100% manual and the fruit is fully destemmed before temperature-controlled fermentation. The rosé is fermented in steel after a cold soak, then matured in vat for 6-8 months before bottling.

The Tempier is 50% Mourvèdre, the rest Cinsault, Grenache and Carignan. It is a beautiful pink gris color with a copper/orange hue. Evocative and vibrant nose of strawberry, watermelon, rose water with some green apple and spice. Equally compelling on the palate with a flavor profile quite similar to the nose, but also with some white pepper and spice. Crisp acidity and rich — but there is a certain understated elegance as well. A lot of hype around this wine — but all well deserved in my opinion.

Imported by Kermit Lynch.

2008 Domaine de la Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé
In the early 70’s Michel and Louis Bronzo acquired the property of the Bastide Blanche, with an eye to producing from appellation Bandol wines the equal of more famous appellations like Chateauneuf. Their painstaking efforts were rewarded in 1993 when vintage conditions created the benchmark year to put Bandol in general and Bastide-Blanche, in particular, on the map of top producers in France. Not surprisingly, there is a rosé in the portfolio of wines, made from predominantly Mourvedre, with Grenache and Cinsault.

This has a bit more body, the fruit is a bit more forward (think more strawberry, less spice). It doesn’t have the same amount of spice, nuance or complexity as the Tempier, but it is also very good. Overall, I prefer the Tempier — but the Domaine de la Bastide is the value choice between the two.

Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

Related posts:
Mas de Bressades — they make a great rosé and a Roussanne/Viognier — both in the $12-$13 a bottle range
Chateau D’Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé
Clos Sainte Magdeleine Cassis Blanc 2007 — great white wine from Cassis appellation in Provence

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged 2008 Domaine de la Bastide Blanche Bandol Rosé, Bandol, Bandol Rosé, Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2008, Kermit Lynch, Weygandt-Metzler | 1 Comment »

Wines of the Year 2009

January 2, 2010 by tomdelorme

Happy New Year! Here are my favorite wines (and some favorite wine related things as well) from the past year. These are in some sort of order, though the top four and maybe even 5 red wines would all have to be considered contenders for the top spot.

Red wines
Domaine Richaud l’Ebrescade 2005
Domaine Gramenon Sierra du Sud 2007
Edmunds St. John Bassetti Syrah 2005
Domaine Gramenon La Sagesse Côtes du Rhône 2007
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Terres de Galets 2007
Daniel Bouland Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2008
Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato Sicilia IGT 2006
Rhys Alesia Sonoma Coast Chileno Vally Pinot Noir 2006
Château de Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône Reserve 2005
Les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône 2007
Jean & Agnes Foillard — Morgon Cuvée Corcelette Vieille Vigne 2007
Cappellano Barbera d’Alba Gabutti 2004
Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos Franc de Pied 2005
Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Les Perrières 2005

White wines
Clos Sainte Magdeleine Cassis Blanc 2007
André Perret Saint Jospeh 2007
Viñedos de Ithaca Odysseus Garnacha Blanca Priorat 2008
2008 Ameztoi Getariako Txakolina

Rosé
Lopez de Heredia Rioja Tondonia Rosé 1998

Blog
Captain Tumor Man — the best post I read all year was in September when Joe Dressner’s results of his last MRI were so good that he had to consider retirement for Captain Tumor Man — though some of his thoughts are so weird they would even make David Lynch uncomfortable…one of my biggest wishes for 2010 is to be invited to his Jan 30th event.

Book
Been Doon So Long: A Randall Grahm Vinthology — the book is a scream. As if we needed proof that there not a more original and talented American in the wine business than Randall Grahm….the most fun I have had reading a book this year. I have to say another thing about Randall as I think he has done something very few people have been capable of achieving. He has made wine more accessible — but not by just giving people what they want, making it cheaper and the usual short cuts. Instead, he has offered the more esoteric as well as speaking and writing in a language that requires a special wine geek decoder ring — and somehow achieved much more in the process.

Shops
Chambers Street Wines — still one of my favorite places to spend an hour in NYC.
Weygandt Wines — the new shop in DC featuring the portfolio of Peter Weygandt.

Importers
Louis/Dressner, Kermit Lynch and Weygandt-Metzler

Posted in Recommended | Leave a Comment »

Charles Joguet

January 1, 2010 by tomdelorme

Founded in 1957, the domain’s objective is to highlight the Chinon terroirs (a combination of soil and microclimate), with a simple idea in mind: each wine is the expression of a particular terroir.

Charles Joquet studied painting and sculpture in Paris in 1949, but returned home after his father died. He worked the domain with his mother, Mrs. Joguet-Malécault (her initials are still found on the wines foil caps). After 40 years, Charles retired in 1997 and returned to painting and sculpture. Charles had planned for his retirement long before and had taken steps to ensure the preservation of his accomplishments by introducing 3 key people to the domain.

In 1983, Charles Joguet met Michel Pinard, who became his key man for everything concerning vines and vinification. After having refined his skills thanks to the teachings of Charles, Michel Pinard began overseeing all the vinifications in 1988. At the beginning of 2005, Michel Pinard turned over control to François-Xavier Barc.

In 1985, Jacques Genet joined the domain and became Charles Joguet’s partner. In addition to a couple of acres of vine on the lovely Monplaisir hillside, whose soil closely resembles that of Chêne Vert, Genet brought with him the land he owned in Beaumont-en-Véron. Finally, Alain Delaunay joined the domain in 1986. and soon became the mainstay of client relations and commercial activities for the domain.

Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos Franc de Pied 2005
100% Cabernet Franc from a one hectare plot of ungrafted vines in the vineyard. The Varennes Franc de Pied is only produced in the vintages we deem truly worthy of bearing the label reserve — and 2005 certainly qualifies as a great vintage.

Dark and dense ruby color. Aromatics of red fruit, violet and green vegetables with lots of pine and a little clove. On the palate, bright cherry and plum with earth, tobacco and chalky graphite. Great balance and depth. Impressive purity of fruit with a velvety texture and excellent tannic structure. 13.5% alcohol. The Joguet website indicates that this should show well from 20008-2009, but this certainly has a good number of years left in the bottle and seems like its best years are yet to come. Recommended.

The wine retails for about $40 a bottle. I was able to find it at Wine Exchange for $27 a bottle.

Charles Joguet Chinon Petites Roches 2002
This is 100% Cabernet Franc, a jeunes vignes cuvée using only free-run wine, the press wine going into Joguet’s Cuvée Terroir. I bought this bottle a 4-5 years ago. I was a little worried that it might have already hit its prime, but actually thought is showed extremely well. Light ruby in color — a little bit of brown starting to be introduced. On the nose, sour cherry with some vegetable, earth and a little funk (think dirty socks). On the palate, tart and tangy cherry and cranberry with green vegetables, wild game, black olive and herbs. Good acidity and finish with some grip and minerality. This has held up pretty well — a really nice bottle of Cabernet Franc for about $18 a bottle. 12.5% alcohol.

The wines are imported by Kermit Lynch. Lynch is currently offering a 6-bottle Joguet sampler that would be a great introduction to his wines.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Charles Joguet, Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos Franc de Pied 2005, Charles Joguet Chinon Petites Roches 2002, Kermit Lynch, Wine Exchange | Leave a Comment »

Château Castigno Saint-Chinian Blanc 2007

December 31, 2009 by tomdelorme

This is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Grenache gris (the Roussanne and Grenache gris are cask matured) from Saint-Chinian. Saint-Chinian produces some 16 million bottles of wine each year. 90% of that production is red wine, but there are also some interesting white wines as well — and this is one such example. Beautiful golden yellow in color. Aromatics of pear and peach with sweet pineapple and floral notes. On the palate, orchard and stone fruit with some tropical and citrus notes (tangerine) as well as bay leaf and white pepper — really solid richness and minerality. Imported by Weygandt-Metzler.

This isn’t widely available and I haven’t been able to find it at any other store than Weygandt in DC. The Weygandt shop gets better every week, they do tastings every day — and are extremely generous in what they pour. Today for New Year’s they had a champagne tasting, that included a wonderful Grand Cru Brut Rose from Nicolas Maillart. Since opening, they hosted a Chateauneuf du Pape and a Burgundy tasting in addition to pouring great wines each day. Truly a great wine shop to buy and taste some outstanding wines. Their opening in DC is on the short list of most important food/wine milestones for 2009 in DC.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Chateau Castigno, Saint Chinian, Weygandt Wines, Weygandt-Metzler | 2 Comments »

Clos Sainte Magdeleine Cassis Blanc 2007

December 19, 2009 by tomdelorme

Aside from being from one of the most beautiful fishing villages in Provence, Sainte Magdeleine is said to be the top producer in the Cassis appellation. Cassis is also the oldest AOC in Provence. 75% of the wines produced in Cassis are white.

The 2007 Sainte Magdeleine is a blend of Marsanne, Ugni Blanc, Clairette, and Sauvignon. Muted aromatics with some orchard fruits, white flowers, honeysuckle and sea foam. On the palate, solid richness and a little oily with orchard fruits with a little apricot, a mash of honey and butter as well as a touch of citrus, herbs and salt. Good minerality, soft acidity, great purity and balance with a clean finish. Something about this wine just begs for seafood. This is one of those quintessential pairings — like a Chenin Blanc from the Loire with mussels, a Sauvignon Blanc with raw clams or oysters — the perfect match for fish stew, cioppino or bouillabaisse. 13% alcohol. Imported by Kermit Lynch.

Kermit Lynch says this is the best Cassis he has ever had — and he has been going to Cassis since 1971. I have had a number of bottles throughout the course of the year — and each time I have been impressed. I came home last night after a wonderful dinner at Et Viola!, poured myself a glass and got ready for today’s snowstorm, expected to be the worst DC has had in 25 years or more. This would certainly would be one of the best and most interesting new white wines I have tried this year.

Some of my other favorite white wines I have discovered this year include:
Viñedos de Ithaca Odysseus Garnacha Blanca Priorat 2008
Bodega Ángel Rodríguez Martinsancho Verdejo Rueda DO 2008
André Perret Saint Jospeh 2007
Domaine Ricard Cuvee Les Trois Chênes 2008
Txakoli (post coming soon)

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Cassis, Clos Sainte Magdeleine Cassis Blanc 2007, Kermit Lynch, Provence | 1 Comment »

Bodega Ángel Rodríguez Martinsancho Verdejo Rueda DO 2008

November 30, 2009 by tomdelorme

Ángel Rodríguez Leal is said to produce the best wine in Rueda, Martinsancho. I have only tasted a handful of wines from Martinsancho, but I can say this Rueda is excellent and can certainly imagine it being the best. Ángel Rodríguez is credited with preserving and reviving Rueda’s indigenous Verdejo grape. In the early 1970s, there arose a push to rip out Verdejo completely. Martinsancho, a vineyard of ancient Verdejo vines that had been in Ángel’s family since 1784 and he refused to uproot them. Rodríguez went further and regrafted his other vineyards from the Martinsancho cuttings. As a result of his efforts, he is credited with having saved Verdejo. Today, the origins of most of the Verdejo vineyards in Rueda can be traced back to Martinsancho cuttings. Ángel Rodríguez’s efforts have even been recognized by King Juan Carlos.

Aromatics of pear, stone fruit, white flowers and honey. On the palate, stone and orchard fruit with some citrus, a burst of tropical fruit (papaya, mango) and loaded with salty minerality. Very approachable and food friendly, not to mention an outstanding value at $16 a bottle. A very unique and distinctive wine. 13% alcohol. Imported by Sole Agents.

This would be on my list of top Spanish white wines of the year, along with the Viñedos de Ithaca Odysseus Garnacha Blanca Priorat 2008 and the Viñedos de Ithaca Odysseus Pedro Ximénez 2008. Strongly recommended.

Posted in Recommended, Spain, Value Pick | Tagged Ángel Rodríguez, Bodega Ángel Rodríguez Martinsancho Verdejo Rueda DO 2008, Verdejo | 1 Comment »

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