Domaine Ricard Cuvee Les Trois Chênes 2008

July 4, 2009 by tomdelorme

Vincent Ricard farms 42 acres of vineyards in the Touraine, located outside the village of Thésée la Romaine, near the banks of the river Cher, in the heart of central Loire Valley. He incorporated Domaine Ricard in 1999, after returning to his family’s property in 1998 following a two-year internship with Philippe Alliet in Chinon and François Chidaine in Montlouis.

Vincent believes strongly in the merits of natural farming. Exposed to biodynamic principles through his work with Chidaine and well versed in organic techniques, he picks and chooses the farming practices which make the most sense for his vines and his wines. Herbicides are never used. He allows grass to grow between every row, though he may eventually cut back to every other row to reduce the nitrogen richness the grasses impart to the soil.

Most consider “Les Trois Chênes” to be Ricard’s flagship wine. He makes other Sauvignons (his specialty), at lower and higher price points, but this one really captures the balance between his terroir, natural farming and talented winemaking. The wine is produced from 80 year old Sauvignon vines. The fruit is hand-harvested and then sees a slow, three-month barrel fermentation, part of the wine’s total eight-month aging regime. After fermentation, the lees (or dead yeast sediment which falls to the bottom of the vessel) are occasionally stirred to keep the wine oxygenated and fresh.

Aromatics of lemon zest, white peach, candied grapefruit and wet stones. On the palate, lemon meringue, key lime, green apple with some lychee and kumquat. Rich and muscular with bright acidity and flinty minerality. I thought this was outstanding and a great value at $20 a bottle. 13% alcohol. Strongly recommended.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Domaine Ricard, Les Trois Chênes, Vincent Ricard | Leave a Comment »

Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato Sicilia IGT 2006

July 3, 2009 by tomdelorme

Arianna Occhipinti is from the Vittoria region of Southern Sicily. She has been making wine for ten years under the tutelage of her uncle, Giusto Occhipinti, who owns the well-known winery COS. She produces first rate wines from biodynamically grown local varieties such as Nero d’Avola and Frappato. In her mid-20s, Arianna already seems to know exactly what she wants to do with her life. She is the sort of driven young winemaker who is bound to be become an important figure in Sicilian wine.

Frappato is a local Sicilian red grape variety that always seems to yield wines that are redolent of fresh raspberries. Arianna’s Frappato is already legendary — and that status is very well deserved.

Bright ruby, light-bodied. but darkly translucent. Lush floral aromatics with raspberry and a little basement and earthy funk on the nose. On the palate, loaded with raspberry, sour cherry and cranberry. Bright, fresh, pure and acidic. Stunning, lovable and delicious. Strongly recommended.

12.5% alcohol. Imported by Louis/Dressner Selections.

Posted in Italy, Recommended | Tagged Arianna Occhipinti, Frappato, Louis/Dressner Selections, Sicilan wine | Leave a Comment »

Clos Saint-Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2005

June 28, 2009 by tomdelorme

Clos Saint Jean is a family estate founded in 1900 by Edmund Tacussel. Wine has been produced at Clos Saint Jean since 1910. Sons Pascal and Vincent have controlled the vinyeard since 1991 when owner Guy Maurel died. In 2003, Philippe Gambie became involved as a consultant. Cambie has been credited with modernizing Clos Saint Jean and dozens of other Châteauneuf-du-Pape estates by focusing on making wines with riper fruit and using small barrels for aging instead of the traditional large foudres or tanks.

The Grenache-dominant wines of Clos Saint Jean are all made from very old vines. They’re opulent, with notes of dark berries and spices. Robert Parker says, “Under the inspired winemaking talent of Rhône oenologist Philippe Cambie in addition to proprietor Vincent Maurel, 2003 marked a breakthrough vintage for Clos Saint-Jean, and that has been followed by some of the finest wines of 2004 and blockbusters again in 2005.”

This is a blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre, 3% Cinsault, 2% Vaccarese and 1% Muscardin.

Deep purple/ruby in color. Cherry, kirsch, currant, twizzler and some pepper on the nose. On the palate, cherry, blackcurrant, plum and pepper with leather and tobacco notes and a bit of toast and black olive. Concentrated and rich. Chewy with good balance and structure with solid (but soft) tannins and a long, pure finish. A little New World, but I liked it and am happy to have a few more bottles downstairs.

1,250 cases made. 14.5% alcohol.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Clos Saint-Jean, Clos Saint-Jean Chateauneuf du Pape, Philippe Cambie | Leave a Comment »

Eric Texier

June 22, 2009 by tomdelorme

Eric Texier worked as a nuclear engineer before deciding he would rather make wine. He became a winemaker without any industry experience or family background in vines or wines. His goals and methods developed not from years of schooling (though he studied enology for 2 years at Bordeaux in 1992 and in 1993), but from his readings, visits with winemakers around the world, and work in Burgundy with Jean-Marie Guffens at Verget. He made his first vintage in 1995.

After giving up the idea of buying vineyards (which was too costly a proposition for someone just getting started), he started a small négoce where he selected particularly interesting vineyards. He rediscovered nearly forgotten areas of ancient fame, like Brézème in the northern Côtes du Rhône, and nurtured relationships with people who tend their vines with great passion and care. He has since acquired plots in Côte Rôtie and Condrieu in the northern Rhône, and replanted several hectares in Brézème, with Syrah and Roussanne.

Today, Texier has two sides to his business. First, he continues to act as a negociant (he produces many different wines, from 10 different origins, from Bussières in the Mâconnais to the northern Rhône and the southern Côtes-du-Rhône), but he also makes wines from his own vineyard in Brézème. Brézème is a small appellation in the northern Rhône. He was fascinated by the fact that in the mid-19th century, its wines rivalled those of Hermitage. By 1961, however, just one hectare remained. Eric has now put the appellation back on the map, and is now the leading grower there. He works his vineyards biodynamically, and makes all his wines in a natural manner, only adding sulphur dioxide at bottling.

Eric Texier Brézème Côtes du Rhône 2007
100% Syrah. Aromatics of violet, cherry, red fruit and twizzler. On the palate, on the lighter side with raspberry and cranberry and a little bit of black olive, pepper and thyme. Very approachable, fruit driven and not overly complex. I don’t think this sees any wood and was very Gamay-like to me in many ways. 12% alcohol. $21 a bottle at Chambers Street Wines.

Eric Texier Brézème Côtes du Rhône Roussanne 2007
Stone fruits, hay and wildflowers on the nose. On the palate, apricot, green apple and pear with a little honey. Good minerality, richness and acidity. Medium finish. 12.5% alcohol. $24 a bottle at Chambers Street Wines.

I thought both of these wines were well made and enjoyable. The Syrah was a bit more interesting of the two wines, but I probably preferred the Roussanne. The Imported by Louis/Dressner.

Posted in France | Tagged Brézème, Côtes du Rhône, Eric Texier, Louis/Dressner | Leave a Comment »

Escaravailles Côtes du Rhônes 2007

June 16, 2009 by tomdelorme

Domaine des Escaravailles belongs to the Ferran family for three generations. It was brought by Gilles Ferran’s Grandfather, Jean-Louis Ferran in 1953. He called his new estate “Escaravailles,” the Occitan word for beetles and nickname for the black-robed monks of the area’s hill-perched Catholic monasteries in centuries past.

The great advantage of the Escaravailles’ terroir is being located at a high altitude (820 feet above sea level) with steep slopes. These conditions are fundamental for the quality of the wine as the slope facilitates drainage and exposure, the clay subsoil preserves some water and the altitude provides an important range in temperatures between the day and the night.

The winery spreads out over 99 acres on Rasteau and 62 acres on Cairanne, Villedieu and Saint Roman. The use of chemicals is minimal and the soils are worked mechanically all year round. Harvest is done manually with two sortings (one the vine and the other upon delivery to the cellar). The grapes are totally destemmed, vinifiyed and aged in a cellar semi underground situated on the heights of Rasteau. Annual production is currently 300,000 bottles / 25,000 cases.

Up until the late 1990s, Escaravailles was considered good, but not great. In 1999, Gilles Ferran took control of the estate. Gilles is an educated enologist from Montpellier and had assisted his father for 10 years. Gilles Ferran is the 3th generation at the domain. At the wine university, he was classmates with Philippe Cambie (Clos St. Jean, Clos du Caillou, Pegau, countless others).

When he took control, Ferran enlisted the services of the Cambie to help craft the wines and the results have been immediate and superb. Cambie directed them to drop fruit, limit yields, get the Grenache plants into balance and wait to harvest until ripeness is optimal regardless of the risk. Ferran took Cambie for his word and followed each suggestion, but on occasion challenged Cambie. Eventually, the relationship grew into one of Cambie’s closest, with each friend pushing the other. The results of this partnership are undeniable. Robert Parker raved about the ’06s from Escaravailles, citing them in his “World’s Greatest Wine Values.” The 2007s might be even better.

Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Les Sablieres 2007
One example of the results, a terrific Côtes du Rhône called “Les Sablieres.” This is a blend of 70% Grenache (40 years old), 30% Syrah (30 years old). The Grenache and Syrah are vinified in separate cement tanks. The Grenache really shines with beautiful and bright cherry, raspberry, strawberry with some earthniness and pepper on the palate. Ripe, but not overdone and medium bodied. Textured, focused and intense, but also extremely well balanced.

It is a great value and a really beautiful bottle of wine. You could told me this cost two to three times as much and I would not have been surprised or disappointed. Certainly one my favorites of the 07 Côtes du Rhônes I have tasted this year.

This was only $12 a bottle at Wine Exchange. 14% alcohol. I thought this was tremendous and strongly recommended.

Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône Les Antimagnes 2007
The Les Antimagnes is also an amazing value, priced at about $14-$15 a bottle. It is a blend of 70% Grenache (60 years old), 30% Syrah (30 years old). The Grenache and Syrah are vinified in separate cement tanks.

Similar to the Les Sablieres, it showcases the Grenache component. On the nose, ripe raspberry, kirsch with a touch of bubble gum and licorice. On the palate, loaded with dark red fruit — black cherry, raspberry and blackberry with some meaty notes, earthiness and pepper. This is a bigger wine and weighs in at 15% alcohol. I thought the Les Sablieres showed a bit more restraint, was more food friendly and had better balance. That being said, this is another very good value and also recommended.

The wines are imported by Jeff Welburn Selections.

Other Côtes du Rhônes from the 07 vintage:
Côtes du Rhône Maxime-François Laurent Il Fait Soif 2007
Domaine Depeyre Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2007
Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Terres de Galets 2007
Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2007
Guigal Côtes du Rhône Blanc 2007

Posted in France, Recommended, Value Pick | Tagged Côtes du Rhône, Escaravailles, Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône Cuvée Les Sablieres 2007, Escaravailles Côtes du Rhône Les Antimagnes 2007, Gilles Ferran, Philippe Cambie | Leave a Comment »

André Perret Saint Jospeh 2007

June 7, 2009 by tomdelorme

André Perret is one of the leading producers of Northern Rhône whites. In particular, his Condrieus are among the very best of the appellation.

André Perret took control of the family domaine (half a hectare) in 1982. Like many small vignerons of the northern Rhône, the Perret family were small-scale farmers, growing fruit and keeping livestock as well as tending their small plot of vines. Soon after taking control, Perret purchased a number of plots of Condrieu, together with some in St Joseph, increasing the size of their holdings to over 8 hectares.

50 km south of Lyon, the Saint Joseph vineyard covers an area of 1000 hectares, along 60 km of the Rhône’s right bank. It includes 23 communes in Ardeche, 3 in the Loire. The soils of the region are characterized by metamorphic schist and gneissic granite. They are also shallow, light, permeable and warm — perfect for producing a high quality wine.

Terrace cultivation of these vines on steep hillsides involves some difficulties for wine-growers. Because of the narrowness of the terraces, the use of machines is impossible — all work must be done manually, so the vines are cultivated entirely by hand.

This is a blend of roughly 50/50 Marsanne and Roussanne, aged one year in barrel, 20% new. Aromatics of peach, white flowers with poached pear. On the palate, apricot, nectarine, honey with some light citrus notes and stony minerality. Rich but elegant. I expect this will be on my short list of best white wines for the year. I was impressed by the ripeness of the fruit, but it showed some restraint and was also well balanced and delineated. 14% alcohol. Imported by Robert Chadderddon Selections. Strongly recommended.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged André Perret, Rhone, Saint Joseph, Saint Joseph Blanc | Leave a Comment »

Kunin Viognier 2006

June 3, 2009 by tomdelorme

Kunin Wines was founded in 1998 with wine production growing annually from 400 cases to a current 5,800 cases. Winemaker Seth Kunin produces his wines made with grapes purchased from the vineyards of the Central Coast region of California. Kunin’s varietals include Syrah, Zinfandel, Viognier and blends of Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah.

Their Viognier is from Stolpman Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley. Pale straw in color. Aromatics of honeysuckle, tropical fruit with some citrus and cut grass. On the palate, stone fruit, pear and lemon meringue. A bit loaded up front, decent acidity, minerality and richness. I would consider this to be good, though it fails to really impress and certainly better options at the price point. 14.6% alcohol. 425 cases produced.

Posted in California | Tagged California Rhône, Kunin Wines, Seth Kunin, Viognier | Leave a Comment »

Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint-Martin Côtes du Rhône-Villages Cairanne “Haut Coustias” Blanc 2007

May 27, 2009 by tomdelorme

The brothers Frédérick and François Alary are cousins to the legendary winemaker Denis Alary. Together, they represent two of the finest winemaking points of reference in the entire Southern Rhône.They are in fact the 10th generation of winemakers to tend this estate in the Côtes du Rhône over the last 300 years—with a family history that goes all the way back to 1692.

Vineyard work at Domaine de L’Oratoire is organic (and now certified), as well as natural (unfined and unfiltered), although the Alary brothers may prefer the term traditional, since they just continue to plow as their father did and his father before him and so on. They use no pesticides, herbicides or chemical fertilizers. Robert Parker wrote that this domaine “is one of the finest estates in the Côtes du Rhône…and one of [its] most conspicuous overachievers, making wines that are far above their humble appellations…. This is the type of estate that brings smiles to consumers who happen upon their wines. They are reasonably priced and qualitatively equivalent to wines selling at two or three times the price.”

Cairanne is a picturesque hilltop village in the southern Rhône Valley, and is considered at the top of the several villages allowed to use the “Côtes du Rhône Villages” classification. The other top CDR villages include Rasteau and Seguret. Generally speaking, a “Côtes du Rhône Villages”—particularly from these three communes—has more class, complexity, and concentration than a straight Côtes du Rhône appellation and stricter standards prevail in terms of lower yields and alcoholic minimums. The best Cairanne wines (like the ones from Oratoire) can rival nearby Châteauneuf du Papes—at half the price.

Their Cairanne Blance is made from grapes that were harvested by hand, following immediate pressing and fermentation for 6 months in vats. This special selection of the estate’s oldest, lowest-yielding vines—some 70 years old—from the lieu-dit “Haut Coustias,” the chalkiest, coolest part of the appellation, combines 40% Marsanne, 40% Roussanne, 10% Grenache Blanc and 10% Clairette. Aromatics of pear, quince, stone fruit and white blossom. On the palate, silky and rich with pear and white fruit, candied cirtus, vanilla, roasted almond and thyme. 13.5% alcohol. Recommended.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Cairanne, Cairanne Blanc, Côtes du Rhône, Domaine de L’Oratoire, Frédérick and François Alary | Leave a Comment »

Lopez de Heredia Rioja Tondonia Rosé 1998

May 25, 2009 by tomdelorme

For a hundred and thirty one years, three generations of the López de Heredia family have devoted themselves to producing exceptional and unique wines. Their rosé is aged in oak and is released only when Maria and the other members of the López de Heredia family feel that it is ready to drink. It is made only in better vintages, and it brings with it the ancient marine mineral bed that is the Tondonia vineyard.

The blend is mostly Grenache (60%), and the balance is Tempranillo (30%) and Viura (10%).

Copper with a tawny orange and pink hue. Intriguing aromatics of orange blossom, honey, dried fruit and a hint of wet cement. On the palate, oxidized with distinct sherry characteristics, orange marmalade, tangerine, apricot, dried flowers and toasted almond. Rich and very complex — pronounced mineral notes, good acidity and a pure, clean finish.

12.5% alcohol. 10,000 bottles produced. This is certainly the most complex rosé I have had and also one of the best. All of their wines are virtually essential in exploring Rioja, Spain and wine.In Europe they say that great stories sell wine (rather than points in the United States). This wine tells a great story — it’s complex, interesting, provocative, shows great depth — and will permeate your thoughts long after the bottle is empty.

Their rosé would be a great complement to Middle Eastern, Indian, Thai or any Mediterranean fare. Strongly recommended.

More rosé wines:
Mas des Bressades Rosé
Chateau D’Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé
Prieto Picudo Preto Rosado 2008

Posted in Recommended, Spain | Tagged López de Heredia, Lopez de Heredia Rioja Tondonia Rosé 1998, Rioja, Rose | 3 Comments »

Prieto Picudo Preto Rosado 2008

May 20, 2009 by tomdelorme

Gregory Perez began his winemaking career at the venerable Cos d’Estournel. With his foundation of great training in Bordeaux, Gregory has brought the to the areas of Tierra de Castilla and Bierzo. The Preto is his new project in Tierra de Castilla, just east of the Bierzo area.

Gregory features the regional specialty grape variety, Prieto Picudo. Prieto Picudo is responsible for lots of rosé wines in its native Castilla y León.

I think this might be the darkest rosé I have had — dense and bright ruby red in color. Cherry, lychee and some jolly rancher on the nose. Fresh, bright fruit of watermelon, pear, cherry, raspberry with some rhubarb and herbs. Medium weight and dense, nice acidity — good purity and precision with some substance on the finish.

Though I still prefer the Mas des Bressades Rosé, Lopez de Heredia Rioja Tondonia Rosé 1998 and the Chateau D’Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé — this is delicious and a great choice for BBQ or burgers.

Posted in Spain | 3 Comments »

Cheverny Le Petit Chambord Domaine Francois Cazin 2007

May 19, 2009 by tomdelorme

I was very excited to see this wine on the shelf and I showed great restraint by only taking a single bottle home with me. The restraint was short lived as this was opened within 24 hours of being brought into its new home. Perhaps not quite as good as the Le Petit Chambord 2006. If memory serves me (and please understand that is a big if), the 2006 had more zing and fruit….but we are talking pretty subtle nuances and the 2007 is a really lovely bottle of wine. Great aromatics, very good acidity with pronounced citrus and mineral components. A great food wine — and especially well paired with seafood given the citrus and acidity — and a good value at $15-$17 a bottle.

This wine is made by Francois Cazin. It is from the appellation of Cheverny, one of the most recent new appellations in the Loire Valley (1991). By legislation, a Cheverny wine has to be a blend of varietals, and François Cazin’s white is 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay.

Another gem in the tried and true portfolio of Louis/Dressner. Recommended — and buy more than just one bottle.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Chardonnay, Cheverny, François Cazin, French Wine, Loire, Louis/Dressner, Sauvignon Blanc | Leave a Comment »

René Rostaing Vassal de Puech Noble Coteaux du Languedoc 2007

May 17, 2009 by tomdelorme

Another wine from René Rostaing, one of the great names of Côte Rôtie. He started out in 1971, with a little more than an acre of vineyards, split between the Côte Blonde and La Landonne. Since that time his holdings have expanded considerably and today his estate stands at over 20 acres of Côte Rôtie.

Rostaing leans to the modernist camp of Côte Rôtie producers; however, he goes easy on new oak, using a maximum of 15% in the maturation process. All of his wines are bottled unfiltered.

Recently, René and his wife purchased a modest estate, Domaine Puech Chaud, in the Côteaux du Languedoc. Located in a relatively cool micro-climate, the zone’s limestone gravel seemed perfect for the Rostaings’ love of Syrah.

I believe this is 80 percent Syrah with equal parts Mourvedre and Grenache. Dark ruby in color. Aromatics of cherry and earth with some wet pavement, cut hay and meatiness. On the palate, sour cherry, plum, leather and some earthiness and minerality. I would classify this as very good and even better at under $20. Not sure I would be as pleased had I paid above $20. 14% alcohol. 1,000 cases produced.

Not the easiest bottle to find. I got this from Primo Vino and it is currenty on sale at $18 a bottle. Wine Exchange has the 2005 at $27 a bottle. Chez Panisse has the 2006 on its wine list at $48 a bottle. I would recommend this at under $20 a bottle — but I was more impressed with the 2005 Puech Chaud Blanc.

Posted in France, Recommended | Tagged Coteaux du Languedoc, René Rostaing, René Rostaing Puech Chaud Blanc Coteaux du Languedoc | 1 Comment »

René Rostaing Puech Chaud Blanc Coteaux du Languedoc 2005

May 14, 2009 by tomdelorme

René Rostaing is one of the great names of Côte Rôtie. He started out in 1971, with a little more than an acre of vineyards, split between the Côte Blonde and La Landonne. Since that time his holdings have expanded considerably and today his estate stands at over 20 acres of Côte Rôtie, including some highly valued plots, featuring in several cases some ancient vines.

He has the reputation as being one of the finest winemakers in the northern Rhone, crafting some of the finest Côte Rôties and Condrieus on the market today. From several parcels of old vines that immediately adjoin Côte-Rôtie and Condrieu, Rostaing produces a gorgeous non-appellation white and red called Les Lezardes. In Condrieu, he holds a tiny parcel in Côte Bonnette that yields some of the region’s most refined Viognier. Most of his Côte-Rôtie parcels are blended to produce the Cuvée Classique and there are his two prized Côte-Rôtie special cuvées, La Landonne and Côte Blonde.

Rostaing is in the modernist camp of Côte Rôtie producers; however, he goes easy on new oak and uses a maximum of 15% in the maturation process. All the wines are bottled unfiltered.

The Puech Chaud Blanc is made from 50% Grenache Blanc, 35% Vermentino (also known as Rolle) and 15% Viognier. Raised entirely in stainless steel (like his acclaimed Condrieu), it offers stone fruit, melon, white flowers and citrus. Full bodied, concentrated and rich, with stone fruit, pear, some spice, saline and bay leaf. Nice minerality and acidity with some zing and a focused finish. 500 cases produced. 13% alcohol.

I got this on sale at Primo Vino on sale for $16.00 a bottle. It might only be May, but I’ll put this on my top ten whites for under $20 for 2009. Recommended.

Posted in France, Recommended, Wine Makers | Tagged Coteaux du Languedoc, René Rostaing, René Rostaing Puech Chaud Blanc Coteaux du Languedoc | 2 Comments »

Côtes de Tablas Creek Vermentino 2008

May 13, 2009 by tomdelorme

The 2008 vintage of the Tablas Creek Vineyard Vermentino is their seventh bottling of this traditional Mediterranean varietal. Vermentino is a late-ripening white grape originating in or Madeira, or perhaps Portugal. It is now widely planted in Sardinia and the coastal arc running from Tuscany through Liguria and into southern France (where it is known as Rolle). Vermentino produces a wine that is bright, clean, and crisp, with distinctive citrus character, refreshing acidity and surprising richness. Tablas Creek was the first to introduce the grape to California in 1993.

Light golden straw color. Citrus, stone fruit, melon and spice aromatics. Light to medium body. Crisp and acidic. Refreshing green apple, pear with lime, citrus and mineral notes. The weight, citrus and acidity makes this a great pair for seafood and Mediterranean fare — or a great apéritif. 13% alcohol.

Recommended. Another example why Tablas Creek is one of my favorite producers in California. Others include:
Tablas Creek Grenache Blanc 2006
Tablas Creek Vineyard Côtes de Tablas Blanc 2006
Tablas Creek Côtes de Tablas Rouge 2006

Of their whites, I think I may have liked their Grenache Blanc the best, but this was probably the most versatile and would give it a nod over the Côtes de Tablas Blanc.

Posted in California, Recommended | Tagged Tablas Creek, Vermentino | 3 Comments »

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